130-year Kasubi history ends in ashes

Mar 17, 2010

WHATEVER way you look at it, March 17 was a day of infamy, not only for the royal family, not only for the Baganda, not only for Uganda, but for the entire world. For the Buganda royals, it hurts that their burial ground was destroyed by a fire.

By Joshua Kato
and Titus Kakembo

WHATEVER way you look at it, March 17 was a day of infamy, not only for the royal family, not only for the Baganda, not only for Uganda, but for the entire world. For the Buganda royals, it hurts that their burial ground was destroyed by a fire.

For the Baganda, this is a loss of heritage. And for the entire world, Kasubi tombs was an international tourism site recognised by UNESCO and enlisted on the heritage list in 2001.

The charred Kasubi tombs are located off the Hoima highway, five kilometres from Kampala city centre.
Buried there are four kings: Mutesa I, Mwanga II, Daudi Chwa II and Sir Edward Mutesa II, father of the reigning king, Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II.

A lot of Buganda’s heritage, a kingdom traced back to the 13th century, was housed at the shrine. King Suuna was the first royal to occupy the Kasubi hill where he set his palace in 1820.

Besides being sacred, this treasure was the biggest grass-thatched hut in the world measuring 30 metres wide. The structure called Muzibu Azala Mpanga, constructed in 1882, was evidence of Buganda’s exceptional architectural prowess.

The majestic entrance was marked by a thatched hut called Bujjabukula. Voluntary guards, armed with spears and shields, kept a daily 24-hour watch.

A guide, Wycliffe Walusimbi, said: “The Baganda boast of a political organisation which is traced back to the 13th century. The first Kabaka of the Buganda kingdom was Kintu, who performed heroic deeds to win the hand of his wife, Nambi.”

On the western end of the site was the main tomb. Behind were round huts and graveyards where the princes, princesses and their families are buried. In this enclave, numerous tribal rituals of the royals were performed. Diviners also frequented the tombs for blessing.
Another important structure in the complex is a hut called Ndoga-Obukaba, stocked with a collection of royal drums.

Beyond this is the main courtyard, enclosed with a reed fence, and numerous houses belonging to heirs of widows of fallen kings. Several rituals are performed in this arena.

The heart of the tombs was the huge circular Muzibu-Azaala-Mpanga. The interior was partitioned with bark cloth.

The roof was supported by poles ringed 52 times to represent each of the clans of Buganda.

The massive hut externally measured 31 metres and had an internal height of 7.5 metres. The thick grass-thatched roof touched the ground.

Guests had to leave their shoes by the door. Insignias including drums, rifles, spears, canons, mats, medals, chairs and portraits of the kings were a spectacular sight.

The thatching was unique. Thatching of the big hut was delegated to the Ngeye clan. When the roofing is being done, widows and pregnant women are prohibited from entering because their presence is believed to cause leakages. In addition to this, the thatch team is also not allowed to have sex when the roof is being renovated.

The tombs were partitioned and had an area called Kibira (Forest) where Kintu’s successors believe his spirit lives. Access to Kibira was limited to the widows of the dead kings, the royal family, and the Katikkiro.

Apart from royal burial ceremonies, other traditional rituals took place there throughout the year. Among them were the new moon ceremony and the regular consultation of mediums.
This spiritual life was not visible to ordinary visitors. Some were performed in privacy.

The tombs were the Mecca of herbalists who consulted the kings’ spirits.

Climate change had not spared the Kasubi Tombs. Intense and heavy rain had made the roof more humid and the funds were not always available to foot the bills of repair.

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