It is a boda boda world!

Sep 16, 2003

Like possessed men, they spin their motorcycles towards us as we approach them. A thick haze of dust forms and rises in the air as the cyclists struggle to brake. Draped in sweat-drenched shirts, worn out shoes and huge black helmets on their heads, the cyclists will do anything to give us a ride.

By Stephen Ssenkaaba

Like possessed men, they spin their motorcycles towards us as we approach them. A thick haze of dust forms and rises in the air as the cyclists struggle to brake. Draped in sweat-drenched shirts, worn out shoes and huge black helmets on their heads, the cyclists will do anything to give us a ride.

With childish innocence, they plead with us to jump onto their motorbikes. “Eno yesinga, mugagga tugende.... (mine is the best, rich man go with me),” they cry out, smiling sheepishly to win our favour.

Welcome to the world of boda boda!

It all started over a decade ago at the Kenya-Uganda crossing points of Malaba and Busia by traders wishing to transport their goods across the boarder. They started off with bicycles but, as trade flourished, the traders turned to motorcycles for quick transportation. Soon after the motorcycles were used to transport people.

The motorcycles’ border-to-border trips, spawned the name boda boda. Today, the boda boda has grown to be one of the most used means of transport in the country. From the small green 50cc and 80cc Yamaha Mate to the Super Curb and Shafter models right to the huge 125 and 250cc Yamaha and Honda bikes, the boda boda has taken centre stage in Uganda today.

This perhaps explains the mixed feelings some people have towards these young men.

Though she uses boda boda, Alice Kaka would rather not be seen using them by her friends. To her, the whole scene is downright embarrassing. “They are very small, noisy and look awful. I particularly hate the fumes that come out of them,” she says. Before embarking one, she carefully looks around to make sure no friends are looking. If she is to go by boda boda, she looks out for the all-black 125-cc YD because of its trendy appearance.

To some, choosing what motorbike to board depends on the cyclist’s approach. “At the stage, I look out for the cyclist who speaks politely to me,” says Sylvia Nakase. On their part, however, the boda boda cyclists are doing a good job, or so they believe.

A good number of them hit the road at 5:00am and sometimes work until midnight. Despite their hard work, many of them unschooled young men from villages, still walk away with peanuts, partly because a huge portion of their earnings goes to the motorcycle owners.

At his old Kampala stage, Francis Kalema makes an average of 20 trips around town per day, and earns between sh15,000 and sh20,000. “Out of this, sh7,000 goes to my boss at the end of the day, leaving me with little to take home, he says. If he hasn’t made enough money by the day’s end, Kalema and his colleagues shift to more lucrative stages along Kampala and Jinja roads. “These are some of the most lucrative boda boda spots in town especially during the day. This is because of the large number of well to do people who work here,” he says.

Areas around Owino, Kisekka and Nabugabo markets and around the new and old taxi parks are also popular among many cyclists because of the brisk business in these areas. Just like other cyclists, Kalema sets his fares depending on the journey. The fare for a journey within town ranges between sh500 and sh1,000, while one out of town costs between sh3,000 and sh15,000.

If not for a few security concerns, most boda boda cyclists would ride to any place at anytime. But for fear of being attacked there are areas where no cyclist would risk going, especially at night. These include Muyenga, Kololo, Lubaga and Nsambya. “Such quiet places are a hub for thieves and murderers, especially at night. These being residential areas with enclosed homesteads, it is very hard for a cyclist to receive help in case of danger, says Godfrey Sekyanzi, a cyclist at Esso corner stage on Jinja road opposite Eagen Mansions.

“They come to us pretending to be customers, but half way through the journey, they stop us and attack us and steal our motorbikes,” says Sekyanzi. Unfortunately, many cyclists cannot tell genuine passengers by just looking at them. “We don’t usually judge passengers by their appearance, so it would be difficult to know thieves,” says Damazo Ahimbisibwe, a boda boda man.

But if they had to choose from different passengers, most cyclists said they prefer taking bazungu because they do not bargain. A mzungu will even pay sh2,000 to be transported from the park to Wandegeya, says Yusuf Ssentongo.

Many cyclists also said they prefer lady passengers because they are less likely to cheat and speak nicely. “Most men are dishonest and rude while young people bargain a lot. They are usually broke, and are likely to give you less than you want,” says Ssentongo.

Kalema and his colleagues believe they would be better off if they owned their own motorcycles. But, many cyclists cannot afford the expensive motorbikes.

The cheapest second-hand Super Curb motorcycle costs sh1.3m. A second-hand 80cc Yamaha Mate goes for sh2.4m, a 50cc Yamaha Mate at sh2m. The biggest and most expensive of all is the 250cc Yamaha or Honda which costs sh2.6m.

Boda boda cyclists have issues with KCC. “They drove us off the pavements but have not given us alternative places to park,” says one cyclist on Jinja Road. But Gabriel Tibayungwa, the Regional Traffic Officer Kampala, says the cyclists sometimes disregard the traffic laws. “Many times these cyclists become an inconvenience when they drive at the wrong side of the road,” he says.

Boda boda cyclists also have a bone to pick with the motorists, especially taxi drivers who sometimes insult them and deny them the right of way. “They hate us. They knock us down and insult us even when we are in the right,” says David Sebunya at Arua Park stage.

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