Barkcloth: The original Ugandan outfit

Oct 08, 2007

THE intense earthy brownness of Uganda’s barkcloth not only inspires style, but also awakens memories of the ancient.

By Harriette Onyalla
and John Kasozi


OUR HERITAGE

THE intense earthy brownness of Uganda’s barkcloth not only inspires style, but also awakens memories of the ancient.

The barkcloth industry in Uganda is traced back to the 14th Century. According to oral tradition, the barkcloth was invented by a man called Wamala of the Ngonge (Otter) clan, while on a hunting expedition in a forest in Mawokota County. He discovered a unique tree specie called Mutuba (Ficus natalensis) from which the barkcloth is made.

Wamala presented his invention to Kabaka (king) Kimera and the Kabaka was excited. He rewarded Wamala’s clan by electing them producers of barkcloth for the royal family.

For Ugandan artists, the range of brown colours in which the barkcloth comes is a sign of creativity. It is one of the finest materials which Ugandan artists use in making crafts.

Peter Kimera Kaboggoza, the Katikkiro for the Ngonge clan, says the barkcloth is still worn by women and fastened with a sash around the waist. The Kabakas and chiefs’ barkcloth is made in cream, white or black colours and worn in a different way to signify their status in the community.

The barkcloth has traditional and spiritual values in the Buganda community. During the coronation ceremonies, the Kabaka wears it to perform rituals. It is also used in worship and at funerals. When twins are born, they are initiated into the world using the barkcloth. It is also as a curtain, beddings and mosquito screen in homes.

Over the years, the barkcloth has enjoyed a renaissance across the world. Many modern designers are using barkcloth as inspiration for today’s textiles.

The fabric can be refined into a soft comfy cloth that stands out as the most original African outfit.

What better way to remember the 2007 Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting than step out with poise in a delicately-modelled barkcloth? Be sure to flaunt it.

The current modern uses are wall hangings, skirts, jackets, shirts, head dresses, hats, bags and insulation.

In 2005, Uganda’s barkcloth was declared a masterpiece in the third UNESCO proclamation of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity. This followed the submission by the Government of the candidature file explaining the production, use and cultural value of the barkcloth. The candidature file contained an action plan for the revitalisation of the craft.

According to the national candidature file, most of the Bantu people of Uganda took up barkcloth-making. It is a rich and ancient craftwork that was indigenous to the west, east and southern Uganda.

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