Drinking more coffee would make Ugandan farmers prosperous

Aug 17, 2008

THE aroma of a fresh cup of coffee first thing in the morning is something many people around the world cannot resist. However, most Ugandans prefer taking tea, an attitude the East African Fine Coffees Association (EAFCA) is trying to change.

By Angela Hill

THE aroma of a fresh cup of coffee first thing in the morning is something many people around the world cannot resist. However, most Ugandans prefer taking tea, an attitude the East African Fine Coffees Association (EAFCA) is trying to change.

“There should be a domestic market such that we do not rely on foreign markets to satisfy out financial needs,” says Philip Gitao, the executive director.

Coffee plays a big role in the economy of Uganda, but surprisingly many citizens are unaware of its impact. It makes up 19.7% of all export crops in the country — the most exported product.

And the money from the 2.7 million bags exported yearly does not go to companies alone.

“Millions of people depend on coffee,” Gitao says. About 90% of the beans harvested come from small farms, often owned by small families. These holdings can be anywhere from a few trees on a plot to 20 acres.

“We need to make the small farmer a hero,” says David Barry, the managing director of Kyagalanyi Coffee (KCL), a leading coffee exporter.
“Agriculture is important. We should be one big garden.”

Building the domestic market will make coffee more profitable. If demand drops on the international market, Ugandans will have to consume the coffee. In Ethiopia, another producer, locals consume 51% of the crop.

Several coffee firms have set up projects to promote the consumption of the beverage among the locals.
Once a month, EAFCA holds a barista training in Kampala to teach those who pour the perfect cup a little more about the beverage they serve.

Accordingly, the first Uganda National Barista Championship was held in February. Three winners were sent to Denmark to participate in the world championships.

Coffee houses in Kampala are also becoming popular as hangouts and meeting venues. But it is more than just the consumers that are learning about coffee. Producers are also getting special training to equip them with skills to get higher yields.

Uganda grows two types of coffee, Arabica and Robusta. However, Robusta forms 80% of the export. Arabica is more delicate, popular and often referred to as the sexy coffee.
“We must not be a snob.

There are good Robustas too, but it often takes a back seat to Arabica,” says Barry. But it is Robusta that has put Uganda on the world map.

“I keep telling people we have finally been discovered,” Gitao says.
Uganda is the place where Robusta was discovered, while Arabica traces its roots to Ethiopia. This discovery has pushed companies like Kyagalanyi coffee factory to emphasise quality.

“The message we send out is, bring us good quality and we will reward you,” says Barry. Through various projects, including regional competitions and coffee co-operatives, the quality is improving.

One of the competitions, ‘A taste of harvest,’ organised by EAFCA, identifies the best producers. Entries come from all the coffee-producing regions in Uganda, from the slopes of Rwenzori Mountains, across to Mt. Elgon.

Winners receive more training by Starbucks, an international coffee company and a major purchaser of the Ugandan crop. Such programmes are designed to encourage farmers to understand their product and give the crop better care.

“Once coffee producers understand the process, they can improve quality and demand a better price,” Gitao says.
He adds that while coffee is region-dependent and soil and altitude can make a difference in the product, “the tree does need to be looked after,” for maximum production.

Historically, coffee farmers simply harvested the coffee cherries and dried them. However, with the emphasis on quality and high yields, producers need to consider intercropping, spacing and prunning.

KCL has a different approach. As the first Ugandan company to win quality coffee certifications, it wanted to ensure higher quality standards.

So, it started Project Nakanyonyi in Mukono district, which seeks to increase Robusta coffee export and introduce better coffee practices. About 3,300 farmers have registered with the firm to receive seedlings, training and equipment.

“The people involved with the project follow guidelines set up by the certification,” says Angello Mukasa, a supervisor.

One of the sample plots, a 20-minute ride from the project headquarters, demonstrates how coffee should be planted. Holes are dug using the 10-by-10 spacing, then seedlings planted after a rain.

After about a-year-and-a-half, the first crop can be harvested and after two years, crops can be harvested twice a year.

A mini-season runs from March to May, while the full harvest is from October to February. In the full season, each tree produces about 15kg of beans.

The trees require shade when they are young, which can be provided by a tarp or “shade trees like bananas,” says Mukasa. However, cassava should not be used as it uses the same soil nutrients as coffee.

Due to a long history of coffee growing in the area, KCL builds on the local knowledge.

“We polish up what they already know because sometimes the farmers know more than we do,” says Mukasa.
Much of this training is about adding value, which President Yoweri Museveni has been emphasising.

The more value, the higher the price. Value-addition may include drying the beans to remove moisture and sorting out stones. It can also be at the milling stage, where coffee bean covers are removed.

Some have suggested that coffee roasting be carried out in Uganda, but this has some drawbacks. “It is not easy getting fresh roasted, ground coffee from Central Africa,” says Barry.

Roasted coffee has a shelf-life and it looses taste over time. Each mug of coffee has its own distinct taste called a cup profile. Like with wine, where experts can tell where the grapes came from, the same applies to coffee.

The better the cup, the more expensive. Since coffee is the largest market commodity worldwide after oil, a good cup of coffee is worth it.

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