The magnetism of the northern Ugandan dishes
There must be something irresistible about traditional food. This can confidently be said about foods from northern Uganda.
By Alex Balimwikungu
There must be something irresistible about traditional food. This can confidently be said about foods from northern Uganda.
For quite some time, I had always marvelled at the sight of Kampala’s high class squeezing on the benches at the crowded and honestly sweaty, Kalo Eating Place- squeezed into a corridor just behind the Uganda Human Rights Commission, on Buganda Road.
From Human Rights commissioners, magistrates, civil servants, journalists, tourists and occasionally models from the nearby Sylvie’s boutique, they are all there, from Monday to Friday.
When I joined, I discovered they were queuing for one thing - food.
Not just any food, but specially prepared dishes from northern Uganda.
“ True, it is not the kind of environment conducive to good dining but the only reason I frequent this place is because of the specially prepared bitter green leaves (malakwang) and millet bread (kwon kal). Nothing beats it. I assure you these foods can change your taste buds,†says Robert Kintu, a clerk at Buganda Road Court.
Tom Acia, an Acholi, born and bred in Kampala, says he grew up on hotel and ‘junk’ food, but ever since he had a go at the traditionally-home made food, he feels nothing comes close to it.
At Kalo Eating Place, the food is prepared in quite an original way by people who could only remind you of how our mothers prepare food in the village.
A bevy of ‘Lawino’ like attendants, wooden mingling sticks, earthen cooking pots, winnowing trays smeared with a little cow dung to block the gaps, a grinding stone and a wire netting for meat roasting accentuate the rich taste and aroma of a natural meal. No surprises about the over 200 people who visit for lunch.
“ In the north, food is one of the benchmarks for our cultural heritage. We try to preserve our culture wherever we go. Even for my Kampala customers, I prepare the food with as much finesse as I would when cooking for a team of elders in Gulu,†says Pauline Otto, the owner of Kalo Eating Place. She has run the joint for six years.
Pauline says there are over 15 dishes of vegetables and meat from northern Uganda, which are served with millet bread (kwon kal).
Malakwang always runs out first, because many people place special orders in their offices. It is good for first timers of the northern dishes.
Bo’o (greens), lakokoro (extra thick simsim paste), la’penna, ground peas laced with moya (shea butter) and Akeyo (ejjobyo in Luganda) are the other much yearned for dishes.
Pauline whispers to me that a mixture of akeyo and aloot (greens prepared without salt and sim sim) are good for one’s libido. So no more guesses on my favourite delicacy!
“On the meaty side, ringo dyang mutwo apiyaa, (cow meat laced with simsim), ringo le (game meat), gweno olel, (chicken mixed with simsim paste) are popular with the ‘lukewarm Acholi’, especially the Bazungu,†Pauline says.
Observing the patrons animatedly talking and smiling as they dip the millet balls in the thick rich soup, one would imagine they were silently laughing at Pauline Otto, for being so ‘naïve’, as to price such rich dishes at a measly sh1,500 not at least the minimum sh5, 000 price tag they deserve.
There must be something irresistible about traditional food. This can confidently be said about foods from northern Uganda.
For quite some time, I had always marvelled at the sight of Kampala’s high class squeezing on the benches at the crowded and honestly sweaty, Kalo Eating Place- squeezed into a corridor just behind the Uganda Human Rights Commission, on Buganda Road.
From Human Rights commissioners, magistrates, civil servants, journalists, tourists and occasionally models from the nearby Sylvie’s boutique, they are all there, from Monday to Friday.
When I joined, I discovered they were queuing for one thing - food.
Not just any food, but specially prepared dishes from northern Uganda.
“ True, it is not the kind of environment conducive to good dining but the only reason I frequent this place is because of the specially prepared bitter green leaves (malakwang) and millet bread (kwon kal). Nothing beats it. I assure you these foods can change your taste buds,†says Robert Kintu, a clerk at Buganda Road Court.
Tom Acia, an Acholi, born and bred in Kampala, says he grew up on hotel and ‘junk’ food, but ever since he had a go at the traditionally-home made food, he feels nothing comes close to it.
At Kalo Eating Place, the food is prepared in quite an original way by people who could only remind you of how our mothers prepare food in the village.
A bevy of ‘Lawino’ like attendants, wooden mingling sticks, earthen cooking pots, winnowing trays smeared with a little cow dung to block the gaps, a grinding stone and a wire netting for meat roasting accentuate the rich taste and aroma of a natural meal. No surprises about the over 200 people who visit for lunch.
“ In the north, food is one of the benchmarks for our cultural heritage. We try to preserve our culture wherever we go. Even for my Kampala customers, I prepare the food with as much finesse as I would when cooking for a team of elders in Gulu,†says Pauline Otto, the owner of Kalo Eating Place. She has run the joint for six years.
Pauline says there are over 15 dishes of vegetables and meat from northern Uganda, which are served with millet bread (kwon kal).
Malakwang always runs out first, because many people place special orders in their offices. It is good for first timers of the northern dishes.
Bo’o (greens), lakokoro (extra thick simsim paste), la’penna, ground peas laced with moya (shea butter) and Akeyo (ejjobyo in Luganda) are the other much yearned for dishes.
Pauline whispers to me that a mixture of akeyo and aloot (greens prepared without salt and sim sim) are good for one’s libido. So no more guesses on my favourite delicacy!
“On the meaty side, ringo dyang mutwo apiyaa, (cow meat laced with simsim), ringo le (game meat), gweno olel, (chicken mixed with simsim paste) are popular with the ‘lukewarm Acholi’, especially the Bazungu,†Pauline says.
Observing the patrons animatedly talking and smiling as they dip the millet balls in the thick rich soup, one would imagine they were silently laughing at Pauline Otto, for being so ‘naïve’, as to price such rich dishes at a measly sh1,500 not at least the minimum sh5, 000 price tag they deserve.