Land of a thousand lakes, hills

Feb 27, 2004

KABAROLE’S alluring beauty is a result of tectonic forces that rocked the land yeors ago

By Raymond Baguma

KABAROLE’S alluring beauty is a result of tectonic forces that rocked the land yeors ago. Today, Kabarole district is a famous beautiful region with crater lakes and rolling hills – which are lesser folds from the main Rwenzori mountain ranges, which resulted from vulcanicity.

Aboard motorcycles, we recently set out to discover the acclaimed beauty of this land and catch a glimpse of the morning sun rays striking the crater lake waters. Dust piled on our clothes as we swerved round bends, dodged gullies and sped to our destination along the pebbly country track.
On the way, I lost count of the numerous rolling green hills, each with a name and story to it. If Kabarole were a painting, it is believable the painter deployed his lavish finesse to sketch the hills blossoming with expansive tea estates and millet gardens sprouting like neat lawns.

On this morning, the hilly crests were smothered by mist and visibility was reduced as clouds descended to mingle with the earth like lovers embracing each other. Echoes of whistling birds would be heard on treetops to signal the break of dawn.
The chilly morning air made my nostrils wet. We past dew-covered shrubbery and sleeping homesteads with windows and doors closed. Soon, the sun would rise, the dew would evaporate and oraire ota (good morning) greeting in rutoro, local language would saturate the air as folks greet one another to detail social harmony in this part of the world.

After hours of travel, somewhere along Kamwenge road, the beauty unfolds. Lake Nyinambuga came in sight. In a valley, calm and beautiful, the lake glittered like a new creation. We were spellbound by the beauty and stood as motionless as the still lake water. Not a soul or a boat could be sighted sailing. Only the gushing flow of streams racing through the dense vegetation to fill the lake tickled our aural senses.

To the ordinary folks, each lake has a distinct name to it, and the names of these lakes roll of their tongues with ease.
From lake Nyabikere to lake Saaka. Lake Kifuruka, lake Lyantonde, lake Mwitampungu, lake Mwamba, lake Kyabudallah, lake Rusoona and lake Ntenda. Others are Lake Nyinabulitwa, lake Nyamirima, lake Nyinambuga and Lake Nkuruba.

Overall, the crater lakes of Kabarole have a lot in common - they are surrounded by dense vegetation with no visible shorelines.
The lakes are a mixture of mystery, beauty and an attraction to tourists. They are also sites of sacred significance to traditionalists who perform rituals, according to Kisembo, a resident who was our guide. Fishing is on a small scale on all the lakes.

Lake Nyabikere has the distinction of housing the famous Crater Valley Kibale (CVK) Resort, which borders Kibale National Park.
The campsite is under the management of the Ruyooka couple. Lake Nyabikere, as its name suggests, is a habitat to croaking frogs which seem to be locked in eternal mating.

The sun was high yet the weather remained chilly. A solo fish boat sailed on the gravely green water.
On arrival, one notices the quiet and peaceful atmosphere about the place. CVK is a welcome change for people seeking to escape the hustle of city life and is a haven for the contemplative souls. Indeed, we were relieved of the fatigue that had come with the tour.

If I had gathered my ancestors at that moment, my express advice and wish would be, ‘Urbanisation should never expand to this part of the world.’

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