Pikolo rules the land of diamonds

* Small huts that litter his compound give his big homestead the look of a military camp By Emmy Allio BANALIA is a shanty town in north east Congo. It is rich in diamonds but only one man lives like a king. This man is revered by the lowly and poor. The rich envy him and he is aware of the power he wields yet he is no ruler. Nonewia-Malanga Pikolo rules the minds of the people, he sets the rules in diamond trade here and has become rich from this trade. His influence spreads over 140km north to the main diamond-mining centre at Panga. Banalia has about 30 large old-fashioned French-styled houses built by Belgian colonialists. The remaining town is an expanse of grass-thatched houses separated by streets lined with ageing palm trees. In these mud and wattle houses, thousands live with virtually no food, dreaming of living in luxury from acquired diamond wealth. Food is scarce, save for wild leaves, fruits and dried game meat. Dried monkey and snake meat, commonly known as samaki ya pori (fish of the forest) are common items sold in the small markets. There is talk that the River Aruwimi, about 200 metres wide at Banalia, has a lot of diamonds on its bed. But neither the desire to pick the diamonds nor to fish to put an end to hunger, forces the people to get into the river. "Fishing is a long process, but one becomes a millionaire in a minute because of diamond wealth. Congolese believe in making quick money and are enslaved in their dreams," said Jean Bayembi, 31, a dealer in second hand clothes. The fish in Banalia market is very expensive. The most consumed meal is cassava leaves and fresh cassava tubers and pineapples grow wild. In most parts of Congo, there are no villages and agriculture is almost non-existent because the entire population lives in towns. In the heart of the town of misery and destitution, is Pikolo's house; a three bedroomed house with glass windows. Parked outside it is a new Range Rover cross-country that looks like the ones driven by Kampala's business tycoons. The bad roads have, however, reduced the vehicle to a tourist attraction. The man believed to be worth over US$200m now rides a motorcycle. He says he owns lots of property in Kisangani and elsewhere. Pikolo's house is fenced with reeds. Small huts that litter his compound give his homestead the look of a military camp. The huts are homes of his 64 wives, and local beauty queens. "Bibi ya yangu ali fariki jana," he said in kiswahili that has been influenced by lingala. (Meaning, my wife died yesterday). Somebody said Pikolo loses either a wife, a child or an in-law every week. But he keeps bringing in new women to be his wives. A senior Uganda army officer in Congo was keen to introduce Pikolo to me. "I want to show you the Sudhir of Banalia. Maybe it will help a lot to explain the lies you write about us. What can we loot from people who look like this?" the officer said as he drove me in his army Land Rover to Pikolo's dusty and scorched compound. Pikolo, 52, wore shorts and a T-shirt that revealed his pot-bellied stomach. He struck one as a man with an unsteady mind. People say he reigns over his wives with an iron hand. He said he dropped out of school at the beginning of his primary school and is the local secretary of Jean Pierre Bemba's Congolese Liberation Movement. His heart goes to the UPDF soldiers whom he regards as his children. "I am not happy to see these boys leaving. They should stay here a bit longer to train our young army," Pikolo said of the withdrawal of UPDF soldiers from Kisangani. At Panga and Banalia, people toil for months, braving the rain and heat, in search of the precious stones. There are several reports of miners being buried at the bottom of a pit while looking for diamonds. There is a belief that unless Pikolo blesses one's journey to the mine field, you will not get any diamonds. Once such a person finds the diamonds, Pikolo has to have a share of them. There are also reports that in areas like Bafwasende, diamond miners must first visit a magician who has a single breast or one eye if they are to succeed in their mission. Pikolo owns no diamond field but people believe he controls the land where diamonds are believed to be in large quantities. From other people's sweat, Pikolo prospers and gets the glory. The 222km road from Banalia to Buta is one of the best highways out of Kisangani city because the roadside there has people living along it. Unlike many roads in eastern Congo, there are several homes with houses built of mud and wattle and roofed with either large leaves or grass. The road itself is narrow with sections of it covered with water. A short distance from Banalia, a submerged Isuzu lorry lies in a ditch. The driver sits in the truck looking at the people. He has spent the night there and could be there for a week until other motorists rescue him. Common talk has it that people living by the roadside make a living out of vehicles that get stuck in mud. They pray for rain so that they can make money. Like elsewhere in Congo, it is the churches that have the best buildings in this part of Congo. Church buildings are just white elephants and the priests are demi-gods controlling the people's minds and attitude. Goods are flown from Entebbe to the old, large town of Buta and are scarce and expensive. Ugandan traders here are making big profits. The town has diamond trading bureaux all over the country but most of them operate within grass-thatched huts. In these areas, several people pose as diamond trading agents. It is common in this part of the world to hear people boasting of being wealthy because of the diamond trade. "My people do not think of tomorrow. If a person lands on a piece of diamond, he goes wild and enjoys himself until the money gets finished. Then he returns to the mine field to look for more," Sasa said. Ends.