Gulu’s most famous son is perhaps Song of Lawino author Okot P’ Bitek (RIP).  Were the poet to resurrect today, he would not recognize his hometown (sorry city).

The traditional grass-thatched huts he wrote about are all but gone, replaced by high rise units; food is eaten using forks and knives; and as the Acholi is wrestling with English, Swahili and Luganda, to be the Lingua Franca.

The name Gulu, according to some elders, was derived from a rock called Guruguru with caves where one Rwot (chief) hid children and women from slave traders. But another, Kennedy Oryema, traces it to a water stream near Gulu High School.

The five-hour journey to Gulu is punctuated with a health break at Ziwa Rhino Camp in Nakasongola where the beasts continue reproducing as if they have a deadline to beat. Besides, the voluminous mammals are the pretty birds flapping their wings in flight as they tweet more than 200 different songs and weave nests.

Kafu roadside market is a compulsory stopover for Nyama Choma, fish and cassava roast.

Shortly after that is a vegetarian's dream come true in Luwero where roadside vendors display huge fish, pineapples, roasted chicken and fruits. The bus stops for passengers to have a snack or health break. Most have both.

The high-end travelers have Kabalega’s Restaurant where burgers, sandwiches and continental cuisines are served. On display are safari hats, footwear and mementoes to take back home in memory of travelling in Uganda.

The most fascinating part of the journey is at Kafu River, where charcoal-roasted cassava which is softer than bread is served. It can be accompanied by the roast beef, liver or a variety of drinks. Smoked fish, ghee, mushrooms, pumpkins, milk and cassava are for sale.

Gulu means heaven to many Bantu dialects, but it has been through “hell” as well, a guide told New Vision during a tour of Fort Patiko.

“Our woes began with the Arab slave traders who enticed local leaders with guns, cloth and beads in exchange for slaves,” narrated Ronald Okello. “They wanted energetic men and pretty women. Among the thousands of men traded, there was only one man who escaped from the high walls.”

One concerned Rwot gathered some young boys and girls and hid them in nearby Guru Guru caves. It was this noun that was corrupted by foreigners to present-day Gulu.

“He was scared the slave trade was bound to render his tribesmen extinct,” narrated Okello.

As the tourism industry staggers back to life, Uganda Tourism Board is identifying attractions that can trigger domestic tourism and make their foreign counterparts stay longer and spend more.

“Fort Patiko, has a wealth of history, very much comparable to Fort Jesus in Mombasa,” noted the Uganda Tourism Board deputy CEO, Bradford Ochieng. “We call upon the private sector to plough their resources in order to avail travelers with memorable trips.”

Fort Patiko is notably an ideal location for picnics, study tours and culture tourism.

“We need the equivalent of an annual Nyege Nyege,” said Kotino. “We have several traditional dances like Larakaraka, Dingi Dingi and Otole dance. By the way, you should sample the numerous Acholi cuisines.”