The Cost of A Blessing at Makindye’s Dungu Hill
Nov 08, 2007
<i>OLUSOZI lwa Dungu</i> (Dungu’s hill) is what the locals call it. Dungu is a male <i>musambwa</i> (spirit) and the hill is where he sits. This hill is found in Kizungu, about a mile from Makindye in Kampala district. It is located on Kabaka’s land and is surrounded by a thick bush.<br>
By Sarah Ulotu
OLUSOZI lwa Dungu (Dungu’s hill) is what the locals call it. Dungu is a male musambwa (spirit) and the hill is where he sits. This hill is found in Kizungu, about a mile from Makindye in Kampala district. It is located on Kabaka’s land and is surrounded by a thick bush.
This is the hill where Dr. Albert Cook, a missionary who came to Uganda in 1896, built his stone seat. Most people still call it “Ekitebe kya Cook†(Cook’s seat).
It is said that Cook would sit here and watch Lake Victoria since the hill commands a spectacular view of the lake.
However, Cook’s seat was destroyed in 1966 after Mengo palace was attacked by Milton Obote’s troops, who thought the seat contained gold.
A narrow trail through a bush leads you to Dungu’s hill, where no one is allowed to wear shoes.
According to Night Nalubega, the caretaker, “whoever steps on this hill with shoes risks Dungu’s curseâ€. Everyone is cleansed with herbs as soon as they reach the hill.
Nalubega became the caretaker last year. She says that she blindly walked from Masaka district and found herself at the hill. “I was brought here by Dungu to look after his Mbuga (palace) and the people. I had never heard of this hill or been to Makindye. Dungu led me here.â€
Nalubega is a tall dark-skinned woman, who has a thick bump of flesh on her forehead and six toes on one foot. Her chest gives you the impression that she has three breasts. When asked whether she had three breasts, she only smiled.
She is hairy and does not wear shoes. Village folks say she has a “lion’s faceâ€
She does not eat fish. “The people who possess spirits don’t eat fish, because some spirits travel in fish,†she says.
Nalubega sits under a big mango tree, sometimes on a black or white goat skin. She sleeps in a white canvas cloth hut when she is not at the fire or in Dungu’s mud-and-wattle hut. In this hut, there are two baskets, one is for Dungu and another for Abalongo (twins).
Here, you find many people — the young and old, male and female, who have come to ask for Dungu’s blessings or to thank him.
Ebyoto (fireplaces) surrounded by spears never cease to burn on Dungu’s hill, come rain or sun shine.
There are two huge fireplaces, one belongs to Dungu, and the other belongs to the Banyolo (outsiders). It is called ekyoto kya Banyolo and it is lit using cowdung and millet.
It is at these fireplaces that one puts firewood, introduce oneself and ask for Dungu’s help. This the custom for those who go to the hill and everyone is required to carry firewood.
The firewood must be placed on the fireplaces while kneeling and ladies should wear skirts. Girls in jeans have to wrap a long cloth around them before they can get any where near Dungu’s fireplace.
The common requests that people put to Dungu include marriage, love, wealth, children and health.
Others come to thank Dungu for the help he rendered to them. Thanking Dungu is done with an offering of beef, bananas and omwenge omuganda (local brew).
According to legend, before Dungu became a spirit, he was a hunter who used to only eat roasted meat. That is why meat is sacrificed to him. The meat is offered without salt because “Dungu is a spirit and doesn’t eat salt. They never ate salt in their days,†says Nalubega.
The meat and bananas are roasted at his fireplace and the local brew is poured into endeku (gourds) and put at the head of the fire with two open bundles of coffee beans, where Dungu’s spear is standing. Two other gourds are put at the other end of the fire.
There are eight huge boulders on Dungu’s hill. One belongs to Dungu, while the others belong to other spirits like Kinene, Serwanga, Kiwanuka, Mukasa, Musoke, Nabuzana and Abalongo.
Before the roasting begins, raw meat is placed on Dungu’s stone. Meat is served with two bundles of coffee beans and coins. Then local brew is poured around the stone.
All this is done by whoever has brought the offering and who is also required to kneel and thank Dungu.
The rest of the meat is roasted at Dungu’s fireplace with the bananas. Both the bananas and coffee are always in even numbers. “Spirits (misambwa) accept only things that are in an even numbers†says Nalubega.
When the meat is ready, Kiganda songs, specifically those meant to celebrate the birth of twins (Abalongo), are sung. “Because it is the twins that open everything. Abalongo be basiba ate be basumulula, teli mulongo kyasiba newabawo asumulula ate teli kya sumulula ne wabawo asiba†says Nalubega.
Translated as: “Whatever the twins lock, no one can unlock and what ever they unlock, no one can lockâ€.
These are followed by praise songs for Mukasa, the god of all lakes since Dungu’s hill faces the lake, we need Mukasa’s to perform any ceremony,†Nalubega explained. Finally, songs in praise of Dungu are sung.
Normally at this time, Dungu’s spirit will possess one of the worshippers.That person will pick up the spear and run into the bush to perform a hunting ritual. In the meantime, the remaining worshippers continue chanting Dungu’s songs.
When Dungu’s medium returns from the mock hunt, he sits cross-legged near the fire and he is greeted by everyone. Then he is given coffee beans.
He then eats some of the meat, shows his appreciation, drinks the brew and serves the one who brought the offering before serving others.
Two pieces of meat and two bananas are left to burn at the fire. Some brew and coffee beans are left there too.
The medium then blesses everyone by spitting on their foreheads.
Thanksgiving songs, coupled with dancing, crown the occasion.
People make money offerings while kneeling on a goat skin and tell Dungu their troubles. In here, you can also tell Nalubega your troubles so she can plead to Dungu for you.
Mindi (pipe) smokers crowd the hill, sitting in small circles and around the fires, joyfully smoking, mumbling and spitting in small tins called “fuso†(a heavy truck). “They spit in tins because we want to keep the ground clean,†explains Nalubega.
Some of the women smoking pipes sleep on the hill on even days to seek Dungu’s favours. The pipe mostly smoked here is “emindi ya Dungu†or Dungu’s pipe. It is a black V-shaped pipe. The women believe that the pipe gives them luck.
Other pipes are Kiwanuka’s and Ndawula’s, a light brown round-shaped pipe and a black long-necked pipe with small humps.
Everyone goes with their own pipe and if you do not have one, Nalubega will rent you one at sh200. A leaf of tobacco costs sh200.
For sh10,000, you get a special bath, performed by Nalubega . It is called ekyogo ky’omukisa meaning “bath of luckâ€.
Other spirits at Dungu hill
At Dungu’s hill, there are other spirits which are invoked using different sacrifices. Each of these spirits has a stone where the sacrifices are made. The spirits include:
Abalongo: are offered fruits, cereals and the sweet things children love like biscuits, bread and lollipops. These are left at their stones and no one is allowed to eat them.
Nalongo: Matooke and saltless groundnut paste are cooked there. She is served first, followed by her clients. The food is served on banana leaves, which are thereafter buried in a banana plantation. Since she is believed to be mother to all, sacrifices to her are made by those who want peace, love and children.
Serwanga: He is offered an even number of a local hen’s eggs at his stone.
Musoke: A pineapple is sliced into two and left at his stone.
Kiwanuka is offered honey. Some of it is poured on his stone and the rest served to his clients. They lick it from their palms.
Nabuzana: Millet and beans cooked with groundnuts, greens and ghee are placed at her stone. This is served to her clients. The food is cooked by young women asking for marriage.
Kinene: Amalwa (a local brew made out of millet) put in ekibya (clay bowl). It is left at his stone for nine days. If after this time the bowl is full, it means “he wasn’t happy with your offering†then you need to offer him more. According to legend, Kinene is walumbe (death), so those who get nightmares and are scared for their life make sacrifices to him.
Mukasa (king of all lakes): He is offered lake water in ensumbi (long-necked clay pot). One can then take this water home and can refill the pot whenever it becomes empty or else one will not earn any money. No one drinks this water.
All offerings are accompanied by two beans of coffee.
Songs of the spirit being invoked are sung and if someone who possesses the spirit is around, it will descend upon him and lead the ceremony.
Compiled by Sarah Ulotu
OLUSOZI lwa Dungu (Dungu’s hill) is what the locals call it. Dungu is a male musambwa (spirit) and the hill is where he sits. This hill is found in Kizungu, about a mile from Makindye in Kampala district. It is located on Kabaka’s land and is surrounded by a thick bush.
This is the hill where Dr. Albert Cook, a missionary who came to Uganda in 1896, built his stone seat. Most people still call it “Ekitebe kya Cook†(Cook’s seat).
It is said that Cook would sit here and watch Lake Victoria since the hill commands a spectacular view of the lake.
However, Cook’s seat was destroyed in 1966 after Mengo palace was attacked by Milton Obote’s troops, who thought the seat contained gold.
A narrow trail through a bush leads you to Dungu’s hill, where no one is allowed to wear shoes.
According to Night Nalubega, the caretaker, “whoever steps on this hill with shoes risks Dungu’s curseâ€. Everyone is cleansed with herbs as soon as they reach the hill.
Nalubega became the caretaker last year. She says that she blindly walked from Masaka district and found herself at the hill. “I was brought here by Dungu to look after his Mbuga (palace) and the people. I had never heard of this hill or been to Makindye. Dungu led me here.â€
Nalubega is a tall dark-skinned woman, who has a thick bump of flesh on her forehead and six toes on one foot. Her chest gives you the impression that she has three breasts. When asked whether she had three breasts, she only smiled.
She is hairy and does not wear shoes. Village folks say she has a “lion’s faceâ€
She does not eat fish. “The people who possess spirits don’t eat fish, because some spirits travel in fish,†she says.
Nalubega sits under a big mango tree, sometimes on a black or white goat skin. She sleeps in a white canvas cloth hut when she is not at the fire or in Dungu’s mud-and-wattle hut. In this hut, there are two baskets, one is for Dungu and another for Abalongo (twins).
Here, you find many people — the young and old, male and female, who have come to ask for Dungu’s blessings or to thank him.
Ebyoto (fireplaces) surrounded by spears never cease to burn on Dungu’s hill, come rain or sun shine.
There are two huge fireplaces, one belongs to Dungu, and the other belongs to the Banyolo (outsiders). It is called ekyoto kya Banyolo and it is lit using cowdung and millet.
It is at these fireplaces that one puts firewood, introduce oneself and ask for Dungu’s help. This the custom for those who go to the hill and everyone is required to carry firewood.
The firewood must be placed on the fireplaces while kneeling and ladies should wear skirts. Girls in jeans have to wrap a long cloth around them before they can get any where near Dungu’s fireplace.
The common requests that people put to Dungu include marriage, love, wealth, children and health.
Others come to thank Dungu for the help he rendered to them. Thanking Dungu is done with an offering of beef, bananas and omwenge omuganda (local brew).
According to legend, before Dungu became a spirit, he was a hunter who used to only eat roasted meat. That is why meat is sacrificed to him. The meat is offered without salt because “Dungu is a spirit and doesn’t eat salt. They never ate salt in their days,†says Nalubega.
The meat and bananas are roasted at his fireplace and the local brew is poured into endeku (gourds) and put at the head of the fire with two open bundles of coffee beans, where Dungu’s spear is standing. Two other gourds are put at the other end of the fire.
There are eight huge boulders on Dungu’s hill. One belongs to Dungu, while the others belong to other spirits like Kinene, Serwanga, Kiwanuka, Mukasa, Musoke, Nabuzana and Abalongo.
Before the roasting begins, raw meat is placed on Dungu’s stone. Meat is served with two bundles of coffee beans and coins. Then local brew is poured around the stone.
All this is done by whoever has brought the offering and who is also required to kneel and thank Dungu.
The rest of the meat is roasted at Dungu’s fireplace with the bananas. Both the bananas and coffee are always in even numbers. “Spirits (misambwa) accept only things that are in an even numbers†says Nalubega.
When the meat is ready, Kiganda songs, specifically those meant to celebrate the birth of twins (Abalongo), are sung. “Because it is the twins that open everything. Abalongo be basiba ate be basumulula, teli mulongo kyasiba newabawo asumulula ate teli kya sumulula ne wabawo asiba†says Nalubega.
Translated as: “Whatever the twins lock, no one can unlock and what ever they unlock, no one can lockâ€.
These are followed by praise songs for Mukasa, the god of all lakes since Dungu’s hill faces the lake, we need Mukasa’s to perform any ceremony,†Nalubega explained. Finally, songs in praise of Dungu are sung.
Normally at this time, Dungu’s spirit will possess one of the worshippers.That person will pick up the spear and run into the bush to perform a hunting ritual. In the meantime, the remaining worshippers continue chanting Dungu’s songs.
When Dungu’s medium returns from the mock hunt, he sits cross-legged near the fire and he is greeted by everyone. Then he is given coffee beans.
He then eats some of the meat, shows his appreciation, drinks the brew and serves the one who brought the offering before serving others.
Two pieces of meat and two bananas are left to burn at the fire. Some brew and coffee beans are left there too.
The medium then blesses everyone by spitting on their foreheads.
Thanksgiving songs, coupled with dancing, crown the occasion.
People make money offerings while kneeling on a goat skin and tell Dungu their troubles. In here, you can also tell Nalubega your troubles so she can plead to Dungu for you.
Mindi (pipe) smokers crowd the hill, sitting in small circles and around the fires, joyfully smoking, mumbling and spitting in small tins called “fuso†(a heavy truck). “They spit in tins because we want to keep the ground clean,†explains Nalubega.
Some of the women smoking pipes sleep on the hill on even days to seek Dungu’s favours. The pipe mostly smoked here is “emindi ya Dungu†or Dungu’s pipe. It is a black V-shaped pipe. The women believe that the pipe gives them luck.
Other pipes are Kiwanuka’s and Ndawula’s, a light brown round-shaped pipe and a black long-necked pipe with small humps.
Everyone goes with their own pipe and if you do not have one, Nalubega will rent you one at sh200. A leaf of tobacco costs sh200.
For sh10,000, you get a special bath, performed by Nalubega . It is called ekyogo ky’omukisa meaning “bath of luckâ€.
Other spirits at Dungu hill
At Dungu’s hill, there are other spirits which are invoked using different sacrifices. Each of these spirits has a stone where the sacrifices are made. The spirits include:
Abalongo: are offered fruits, cereals and the sweet things children love like biscuits, bread and lollipops. These are left at their stones and no one is allowed to eat them.
Nalongo: Matooke and saltless groundnut paste are cooked there. She is served first, followed by her clients. The food is served on banana leaves, which are thereafter buried in a banana plantation. Since she is believed to be mother to all, sacrifices to her are made by those who want peace, love and children.
Serwanga: He is offered an even number of a local hen’s eggs at his stone.
Musoke: A pineapple is sliced into two and left at his stone.
Kiwanuka is offered honey. Some of it is poured on his stone and the rest served to his clients. They lick it from their palms.
Nabuzana: Millet and beans cooked with groundnuts, greens and ghee are placed at her stone. This is served to her clients. The food is cooked by young women asking for marriage.
Kinene: Amalwa (a local brew made out of millet) put in ekibya (clay bowl). It is left at his stone for nine days. If after this time the bowl is full, it means “he wasn’t happy with your offering†then you need to offer him more. According to legend, Kinene is walumbe (death), so those who get nightmares and are scared for their life make sacrifices to him.
Mukasa (king of all lakes): He is offered lake water in ensumbi (long-necked clay pot). One can then take this water home and can refill the pot whenever it becomes empty or else one will not earn any money. No one drinks this water.
All offerings are accompanied by two beans of coffee.
Songs of the spirit being invoked are sung and if someone who possesses the spirit is around, it will descend upon him and lead the ceremony.
Compiled by Sarah Ulotu