Boldwins Cafe batting on rather sticky wicket

Feb 24, 2005

Location, location, location is a common phrase among restaurateurs throughout the world and indeed ought to be a truism by any standard

DEGUSTIBUS

Place: Boldwins Café
Rating: X
Food: Continental
Location: Second floor Block B, Crested Towers
Smoke Free Zone: Allowed on the terrace
Price Range: Tea sh3,000, fresh juices between sh3,000 and sh3,500, milk shakes sh4,000, beer between sh2,500 and sh3,500, while soups are sh4,000
Recommended dishes: Club and grilled chicken sandwich
Service: Good
Ambience: First class

By Kadumukasa Kironde II

Location, location, location is a common phrase among restaurateurs throughout the world and indeed ought to be a truism by any standard. Take a prime property like Crested towers and lease out over 250 square metres for a couple of thousand bucks a month, including a hefty service fee and it is a cinch that you are in business.

After all compared to Manhattan, where a comparable let (for an eating joint) would set you back for not less than $100 per square foot (sic), the rent in Kampala would be mere chump change.

So far so good, except that sadly our people generally have a backward and provincial mentality when it comes to things like dining out. Unlike in Manhattan, where it is a safe bet that one would be assured of a good number of clients from the occupants of the property, over here matters are a little different.

There is a major government occupant in Crested Towers, where the lowest paid worker probably gets mid six figures in salary, but it is a safe bet that the bosses will generally opt for tea, courtesy of the organisation, mandazi, pancakes and the like, smuggled in by a worker. Come lunch time it will either be lunch (matooke and the accompaniments) from the local lady downstairs, or else a trip to Nalongo of Katwe without caring about fuel or wear and tear of the vehicle.

In the absence of walk-in traffic from the street, it would seem as though Boldwins is batting on a rather sticky wicket. The place could certainly use a few more patrons. Location is paramount!

In terms of design, infrastructure, atmosphere et al, Boldwins café is a remarkable achievement. The place exudes of excellence and one only wishes that there were more patrons to fill up the place. While I enjoyed their coffee, I have had better elsewhere. When it comes to pancakes I have to hand it to them. They are superb although I have yet to see commercial buttermilk on the market.

Finally, it is a bit of an oversight not to have a cheese sandwich. I must say that the choice of soups available is legion. I counted no fewer than half a dozen; I am not enamored of packaged soups.

RATING:

XXXX UNRIVALLED
XXX EXCELLENT
XX VERY GOOD
X GOOD
NONE POOR TO SATISFACTORY

These views are the reviewer’s personal reaction with price being factored into consideration. The menu listings are subject to change without notice

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