Where Ankole cows graze with game

By Mathias MugishaIt is lunch time. A herd of impalas is on the way to quench their thirst from the usual watering hole. A distance away, a group of zebras gracefully swing their necks to have a glimpse of the afternoon intruders (tourists) into their peaceful ‘kingdom’. Numerous colourful birds are flying from tree to tree, decorating the blue skies as if on assignment from the great artists Micheal Angelo and Picasso. Inside a modern complex that contradicts the blend of nature in the area, a simple ‘prayer’ that has ensured this harmony, only comparable to the Garden of Eden, continues.“Trees purify the air, make soil fertile, and are the skin of the planet,’’ says David Abeho in the midst of a harmonious wildlife ecosystem. Abeho pauses, looks through the window and his eyes register the landscape teeming with wildlife as he mechanically continues:“Trees purify the air we breathe, they bring rain, stop soil erosion, and provide shade ......... Despite these benefits, mankind has gone mad, chopping down trees much faster than new trees are being planted. Parents and children, lets plant more trees,’’ he says.It is always never too late for prayers. And this recitation, an introduction to the area conservation lessons, transformed Lake Mburo National Park. David Abeho works as the warden in charge of community conservation. His prayer is the basis of the positive changes that have put the unique park on its feet.Lake Mburo National Park is the only place where domestic animals graze alongside wild beasts in harmony under the care of herdsmen.Measuring only 250sq km, the park harbours several species of mammals and birds not found anywhere else in the country. The park’s mosaic of habitats-dry hillsides, bushy thickets open savanna, forests, lakes, swamps and rocky outcrops are home to a diversity of plants and animals. In the middle of the park is Lake Mburo which, together with other 14 smaller ones, form the park’s wetland system. Lake Mburo National Park lies in the rain shadow between Lake Victoria and the Rwenzori Mountains and thus only receives 800mm of rain a year. The average recorded temperature is 27.5°C and the park lies between 1219 and 1828 metres above sea level. There are 68 known mammals in the park. The impala, slender mongoose and bush rat are not found anywhere else in the country’s parks except Mburo. Rare sightings in the park include: klipspringers that live in small groups in rocky cliffs and outcrops. Roan antelopes are also hard to see, not to mention the statunga. Lake Mburo National Park has 310 recorded bird species, which include many rare ones like the shoebill, papyrus yellow warbler, white winged warbler and the African finfoot. Others are the saddle-billed stork, brown-chested wattled plover, abyssinian ground hornbill cisticola and a lot more.Because of the turbulent history of wildlife conservation in the park, on a sad note, lions, elephants, hunting dogs, black rhinos and the giant forest hogs are now extinct. The sad history of the park that was originally part of the Nkore kingdom dates back to the 1930s. The Omugabe (king) used to allow his people to graze their cattle in the area only in times of drought. In 1935, the area was declared a controlled hunting ground until the 1940s when an outbreak of sleeping sickness and Nagana forced the pastoralists to flee.The drastic tsetse fly eradication programme of spraying and burning bush that followed severely reduced the wild game.In the early 1960s, the area was declared a game reserve though resident farmers were allowed to remain. The establishment of ranching schemes pushed more people into the game reserve until 1983 when the Obote government created the Lake Mburo National Park along the original boundaries. Many families were evicted, their animals driven away and crops destroyed.This made the people hate the park. When the Obote government fell, the angry people returned and destroyed the park facilities. They also poisoned the animals they considered threats to their livestock. Lions fell victim. In 1987, it was decided that the people be allowed to co-exist alongside the animnals in the park.Sixty percent of the park land was given to the people who had nowhere else to go. But the animals were not consulted and they do not know that. They still use the land that was formerly their home range which was degazzeted and given to the communities. It is a common sight to see the elegant long-horned Ankole cows grazing with antelopes and other animals. To sensitise the population about the benefits of the park, the communities were brought aboard to defend the animals in many ways.The park, with the help of USAID constructed the Conservation Education centre where students and peasants alike go for conservation lessons under the tutorship of David Abeho. Abeho uses video shows, slides and drama to teach the benefits of conservation.As an incentive, fishing on Lake Mburo was given a green light but the number of canoes is controlled. Permanent houses for registered fishermen were constructed by the park at Rubare fishing village at the shores of Lake Mburo. Recently, game hunting was introduced in the communities near the park. Some animals are hunted for as much as US$ 600 (about Sh.1,050,000) whereby a big percentage remains in the community. On top of that, the communities also get 20% of the gate collections from the park. Recently, the communities got sh27m, which was used to repair the main road to the park. This arrangement with the locals forms the backbone of the community conservation programme. Accommodation in the park comes in form of five double-bed tents at a cost of sh15,000 per night each. There are also bandas which are in bad shape. Jane Apio, the warden for tourism says the demolition of the bandas is long overdue. Visitors who have no quarrel with money can book self-contained luxury tents run by Mantana at $150 per night. Lake Mburo National Park which is about three and half hours- drive from Kampala also offers game drives, boat cruises, camping, bird watching and fishing. If you want to reach the park from Kampala, after 27 km from Lyantonde, turn left at Sanga trading centre.