Kibale Park’s diverse creatures

By Kalungi Kabuye Chimpanzees are humankind’s closest relatives, or so I have heard, a number of times. But it is hard to accept this until one goes chimp tracking and listens to the chimpanzee tales told by the rangers. Kibale National Park has one of the highest chimp concentrations in East and Central Africa, and their number has more than doubled over the last five years to about 1,200. There are over 13 species of primates in the park, which has the largest diversity and density in the world. Five years ago, I went chimp tracking and after a three hour hike, all we got to see was the behind of an old female as it fed high up in the trees. However, last month I got my fill of these amazing primates that indeed behave very much like humans. You begin the tracking from the Kanyanchu Tourist Site, about 36 kilometres south of Fort Portal town on the road to Kamwenge in western Uganda. There the guides brief you about what you are going to see, and about the wildlife to be found in the park, made up of a natural rain forest. They will tell you about the primates that only come out at night, and about the Red-tailed monkey, an endangered species in its own right. There is the black and white colobus, the Blue monkey, and then bush-babies. Then you start the hike. We were lucky that a group of tourists had left earlier, and by radio we learnt where the chimps were most likely to be. We had barely walked for 30 minutes when we spotted two chimps atop a tall tree. According to our informative guides, J.B. and Moses, one of the chimps was 10-year-old Kato and the other was a female called Akiiki, 13, which was apparently on heat. The rangers know all the chimps in the forest and have given them names according to their peculiar characteristics. Kato had a deformed right ear that was probably a result of a fight, while Akiiki had something about her face that was unusual. There was Kacweka, who had a broken arm from a wire snare that caught her. Apparently, some poachers lay the traps for small animals, but at times they trap the chimps as they are walking. Usually, the snares are anchored on logs, and there are tales of a chimp carrying the whole log with it as it moves and climbs on the tree with it, until either the log falls off, or the limb. There are all kinds of tales about the chimps. Kato, for instance, is apparently a very stubborn noisy young chimp. Unlike other wild animals, chimps live in a community, with one dominant male, the Alpha male. But other males live in the community too. And, surprise, surprise: Chimps feed mostly on fruits, but like their red meat, too. According to J.B. and Moses, chimps will go out in groups and hunt the red-tailed monkey. They chase the monkey and then tear it apart with their amazing strength. No condiments and no seasoning is needed. They just gobble it down. As a result, there is a constant war between monkeys and chimps. And as we watched Kato and Akiiki lovingly, a group of monkeys came nearby. The two chimps were clearly outnumbered and quickly came down the tree and walked off. Chimps can move at an amazingly quick pace, and very silently. But we soon caught up with the two again, this time in a much bigger group, including a couple of females with young ones. Apparently, chimps are also divisive to a degree, and at times there are wars between different groups. J.B and Moses said they do not want to see a fight between chimps, because it gets very bloody and often results in fatalities. It is difficult to kill a chimp, so the amount of violence in these fights can be staggering. Impressive as they are, there is more to Kibale National Park than just chimpanzees. The 766 square kilometre park holds one of Africa’s most enchanting trees. It contains a tropical rain forest, montane forest and mixed tropical deciduous forest. In addition there are several other mammals in the forest, and at one time it held the second largest concentration of elephants in the country. There are also buffaloes, bush pigs, duikers and bats. There are over 250 species of trees that have been recorded in the park, over 320 species of birds, and 144 species of butterflies. After three hours or so, you have had your fill, and it is time to head back to Kanyanchu for lunch. ends