A day at Mulungu Beach in Munyonyo

 

 

It is also a place where you can get the famous kabelo (dish of boiled fish or tilapia mixed with matooke and Irish potatoes).

 

However, there is more to the place than cheap fish. It is also characterised by angelic and ‘evil acts' - depending on the time of day.  

 

One Sunday, I decided to spend the day at the much-hyped beach. Like any other Christian community, a Sunday at this beach starts with prayers at the Musa Mukasa Chapel (of the Anglican Church of Uganda), located within the vicinity.

 

 

 

The church is made up of metallic rails. While the pastor tries to revive lost souls, many women and men move up and down preparing for the day. 

 

Much as it is not a high-class area, Mulungu attracts all classes of people. Because of this, it is divided into two - the ‘umbrella side' and ‘the ghetto side' also known as mumiti. 

 

As you enter the umbrella side, you will notice lockup shops that work as bars, restaurants and stores on your right and mostly places of convenience on your left.

 

The place is already brimming with activity. Men are organising the place - some are already wearing white overcoats and gumboots preparing fish on stalls, while women are putting on their aprons. Others are peeling the matooke and Irish potatoes that will be served with the fish.

 

Indeed, Mulungu is a beehive of activity. Waitresses help you settle down so that they can serve you with their delicacy. Some fishermen are on dock, cleaning their boats while others are coming in with last night's catch.

 

 

 

 

The ‘ghetto' side has both the car park and vast space which accommodates most of the people. Women set up their umbrellas in the early hours and wait for customers while others prepare mairungi for sale.

 

Two young men, probably in their early 20s, come in on a motorcycle, buy mairungi and proceed to the periphery side of the ghetto area. Some come in with their chewing khat, bottled waragi and cigarettes, while others buy it from inside. For some reason, they leave and then come back within 15-20 minutes.

 

Revellers start coming in at around 2:00pm. Some head to the umbrella area, while others who prefer privacy head to the ghetto side, where they park and open the car boots for the deafening music to explode.

 

You can clearly tell by the type of cars parked around that there are prominent figures among the crowds. Unlike the umbrella side where moments are soothed with one song, the ghetto side fills you with a variety. You get to listen to Lingala, hiphop, RnB and pop music, all at the same time. 

 

At the ghetto side, young women are ready to help you get comfortable - you either get a plastic chair at sh1,000 or buy a drink. The attendants charge an extra sh500 on every drink ordered - it is how they make a living.

 

Parents come with their maids and as mothers/fathers enjoy their flavoured cannabis, their children enjoy the fish. Besides the children who come with their parents, there are boys aged 8-13 years who sell boiled eggs.

 

Teenagers aged 16-19 years chew khat while playing cards with older men and sharing shisha pots. Others move around selling chewing gum.

 

As it gets dark, couples take over the church verandah, where they take booze, smoke shisha, chew khat and smoke marijuana. A few of them have kabelo.

 

 

 

While other big spenders cruise on speed boats, a group of Born-again Christians stand at the shores, singing songs of praise and worship as their leader steps in the water to baptise converts. Boat cruising ranges from sh5,000-sh10,000.

 

It is 7:00 pm and it is getting darker, but that does not stop people from coming in. A few who leave as early as 6:00pm go to neighbouring places, such as Auto Spar for more fun.

 

According to Sarah, one of the waitresses at the beach, cases of rape and theft are rare in the area.

 

Mulungu beach is located in Munyonyo. It is a few minutes' drive from Kampala city through Salaama Road or Kabalagala-Kansanga. It sits on 3-4 acres. The place is managed and controlled by Buganda kingdom, whose representative, commonly known as Nakawere, oversees the place and is in charge of collecting funds on behalf of Buganda's treasury. 

 

Rent in the area varies. Those in lock-ups pay sh150,000 a month, while in the ghetto, one can access land on lease and get other people to perform their duties for a pay of sh50,000 per month.