What’s beyond Kisoro’s hills?
Apr 24, 2009
THE rough narrow road, thick dust and sharp corners characterise the ride. It is 5:00pm but Kisoro is still far from our reach. The heavy Caterpillar tractors engaged in road repair roaring in every direction, slow us down. Momentary holdups as vehicles w
By Jamesa Wagwau
THE rough narrow road, thick dust and sharp corners characterise the ride. It is 5:00pm but Kisoro is still far from our reach. The heavy Caterpillar tractors engaged in road repair roaring in every direction, slow us down. Momentary holdups as vehicles wait for trucks to offload tonnes of soil heaped by the roadside cause traffic jams.
The bumpy road makes our bums fly left, right, up and down. We have just passed Kabale and we still have two more hours of rhythmic ‘bum-shaking’ on a road that weaves its way through forests and rocky hills.
The breathtaking view of the hills and valleys, the roads that snake their way around the hills, coupled with the steep cliffs make our journey both chilling and exhilarating. From a distance, the cultivated hills reflect an image of a well- spread- out carpet with artistic rectangular designs. The ‘carpet’ stretches uniformly over the hills and the valleys below.
The rough narrow road hugs the hill in tight embrace. It is difficult for us to tell whether we are moving ahead or simply spiralling round and round the same hill. In some corners, the roads meander close to steep cliffs bordering deep valleys.
The slightest error would plunge the vehicle irretrievably deep into the valley. From the narrow roads with no rail guards, the sight of the valley is bloodcurdling enough to coerce a pagan to say his last prayer.
A screaming silence welcomes us into Echuya Forest Reserve. We drive a long stretch on this secluded road with no sign of life in sight. I realise afresh how important it is to see people walk around; even if you don’t talk to them.
As we get closer to Kisoro town, the road gets dustier. The cloud of dust is thick enough to compel a driver to switch on their head lamps even during the day. The rolling hill landscape recedes into the background as modern neatly painted buildings gradually replace the village structures crying for renovation.
Daylight flickers to a close. The wind howls with a cool breeze that ushers us into a new territory. We are in Kisoro! The town sits on a relatively flat landscape surrounded by hills. It is like a huge hill had to be flattened to create space for Kisoro town.
Unlike Kampala suburbs, Kisoro goes to sleep early. By 8:00pm, the shops are closed, the traffic thins out and the bustling business wanes. The mayor’s garden in the middle of the town imports a fresh breath of nature with its blossoming grass and scattered trees.
When daylight fades, the screaming crickets take over, reducing the garden into a spine-chilling spot. Lack of street lights and the deafening silence gives Kisoro town a serene sleep.
To a typical Kampala party animal, Kisoro has nothing to offer in the dead of the night. To a tourist, it is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of urban life. There seems to be an ‘outbreak’ of Guest Houses here. The booming tourism brought about by the presence of gorillas in Bwindi Forest has swelled the accommodation demand.
Apart from the mushrooming Guest Houses, almost all signposts bear the image of a gorilla even if the place has nothing to do with gorillas. Our guide, Edison Ndayambaje, says the gorilla image is a sales point because most tourists visit Kisoro to see gorillas.
My expectation to enjoy an optical feast of Bafumbira beauties hit mountain rocks.
The sight of a well-rounded bum, shapely legs and feminine curves capable of calming my stress remained a distant dream. Kisoro is hub of senior female citizens with very limited visual appeal.
It is like all the Bafumbira beauties were evacuated to Kampala. Not even the breathtaking sight of the rolling hills would quench my thirst for feminine beauty. The hills kept beckoning us and we succumbed to their call by climbing one adjacent to the town.
Nyabitare hill is located two kilometers behind the Kisoro town. On this hill lies a ‘holy spot’ with a cross known as Sinai. Christians visit this place for prayers and to perform religious rituals. Nyabitare provides a commanding view of Mount Muhabura, which is part of Virunga volcanoes.
In the morning, the sun lights up the horizon with a crimson glow which glitters and gleams behind the hills. It is a magical beauty that remains etched in memory. My memories of Kisoro, however, stretch beyond the hills.
The memories of cold nights with no woman to hold, overflowing plates of katogo for breakfast coupled with smiling waitresses will linger on for long.
Before you fall in love with Kisoro’s scenery, beware of ‘Kisoro addiction bug’ that bites tourists there. Like Oliver Twist, I cannot help but beg to be given ‘some more’.
THE rough narrow road, thick dust and sharp corners characterise the ride. It is 5:00pm but Kisoro is still far from our reach. The heavy Caterpillar tractors engaged in road repair roaring in every direction, slow us down. Momentary holdups as vehicles wait for trucks to offload tonnes of soil heaped by the roadside cause traffic jams.
The bumpy road makes our bums fly left, right, up and down. We have just passed Kabale and we still have two more hours of rhythmic ‘bum-shaking’ on a road that weaves its way through forests and rocky hills.
The breathtaking view of the hills and valleys, the roads that snake their way around the hills, coupled with the steep cliffs make our journey both chilling and exhilarating. From a distance, the cultivated hills reflect an image of a well- spread- out carpet with artistic rectangular designs. The ‘carpet’ stretches uniformly over the hills and the valleys below.
The rough narrow road hugs the hill in tight embrace. It is difficult for us to tell whether we are moving ahead or simply spiralling round and round the same hill. In some corners, the roads meander close to steep cliffs bordering deep valleys.
The slightest error would plunge the vehicle irretrievably deep into the valley. From the narrow roads with no rail guards, the sight of the valley is bloodcurdling enough to coerce a pagan to say his last prayer.
A screaming silence welcomes us into Echuya Forest Reserve. We drive a long stretch on this secluded road with no sign of life in sight. I realise afresh how important it is to see people walk around; even if you don’t talk to them.
As we get closer to Kisoro town, the road gets dustier. The cloud of dust is thick enough to compel a driver to switch on their head lamps even during the day. The rolling hill landscape recedes into the background as modern neatly painted buildings gradually replace the village structures crying for renovation.
Daylight flickers to a close. The wind howls with a cool breeze that ushers us into a new territory. We are in Kisoro! The town sits on a relatively flat landscape surrounded by hills. It is like a huge hill had to be flattened to create space for Kisoro town.
Unlike Kampala suburbs, Kisoro goes to sleep early. By 8:00pm, the shops are closed, the traffic thins out and the bustling business wanes. The mayor’s garden in the middle of the town imports a fresh breath of nature with its blossoming grass and scattered trees.
When daylight fades, the screaming crickets take over, reducing the garden into a spine-chilling spot. Lack of street lights and the deafening silence gives Kisoro town a serene sleep.
To a typical Kampala party animal, Kisoro has nothing to offer in the dead of the night. To a tourist, it is a refuge from the hustle and bustle of urban life. There seems to be an ‘outbreak’ of Guest Houses here. The booming tourism brought about by the presence of gorillas in Bwindi Forest has swelled the accommodation demand.
Apart from the mushrooming Guest Houses, almost all signposts bear the image of a gorilla even if the place has nothing to do with gorillas. Our guide, Edison Ndayambaje, says the gorilla image is a sales point because most tourists visit Kisoro to see gorillas.
My expectation to enjoy an optical feast of Bafumbira beauties hit mountain rocks.
The sight of a well-rounded bum, shapely legs and feminine curves capable of calming my stress remained a distant dream. Kisoro is hub of senior female citizens with very limited visual appeal.
It is like all the Bafumbira beauties were evacuated to Kampala. Not even the breathtaking sight of the rolling hills would quench my thirst for feminine beauty. The hills kept beckoning us and we succumbed to their call by climbing one adjacent to the town.
Nyabitare hill is located two kilometers behind the Kisoro town. On this hill lies a ‘holy spot’ with a cross known as Sinai. Christians visit this place for prayers and to perform religious rituals. Nyabitare provides a commanding view of Mount Muhabura, which is part of Virunga volcanoes.
In the morning, the sun lights up the horizon with a crimson glow which glitters and gleams behind the hills. It is a magical beauty that remains etched in memory. My memories of Kisoro, however, stretch beyond the hills.
The memories of cold nights with no woman to hold, overflowing plates of katogo for breakfast coupled with smiling waitresses will linger on for long.
Before you fall in love with Kisoro’s scenery, beware of ‘Kisoro addiction bug’ that bites tourists there. Like Oliver Twist, I cannot help but beg to be given ‘some more’.