The Banda island experience
Mar 22, 2007
LAST Friday, 3 O’clock, found me aboard a small boat on Lake Victoria, heading for Banda Island. Apart from curiosity, I had set out on this adventure because it sounded like a good escape from the hectic hustle and bustle of Kampala.
By Sam Wilson
LAST Friday, 3 O’clock, found me aboard a small boat on Lake Victoria, heading for Banda Island. Apart from curiosity, I had set out on this adventure because it sounded like a good escape from the hectic hustle and bustle of Kampala.
My jolly jaunt did not start out well, however, as I refused the porter offering to take me from the shore to the boat, and consequently clambered aboard with the bottoms of my shorts utterly soaked.
I also ralised I had forgotten sun cream, and suffered from the fairly common Muzungu problem of sun burn – finally arriving on Banda with damp shorts and a red face.
Getting to Banda, though, at about 8 O’clock, I thought it was worth the three-hour trip (though perhaps not the burn).
Gathered on the beach in the twilight were some roughly-hewn chairs and sofas, liberally strewn with cushions and softly illuminated by a couple of lanterns.
As I later discovered, this was the main eating and relaxing area for the ‘camp’. Though it was fairly dark by now, I could see some figures seated on the chairs and was welcomed heartily by one of them, who I later discovered was Dominic, the owner.
I was offered a beer and later on a delicious dinner of pumpkin soup and croutons (small pieces of fried or toasted bread), followed by a main course consisting of some fantastic fish.
The atmosphere was great. I had the impression of a relaxed, disorganised, exceedingly mellow place, where nothing much happened apart from the occasional play fight between the dogs – which besides the chicken, roamed around the camp as happy as larry.
The three days I spent at the island were spent in glorious indolence.
Without mincing words, there is nothing whatsoever to do on Banda, besides reading from the moulding library in the bar. Indeed, reading, drinking beer, sleeping and eating, form the basis of Banda life, with the occasional short stroll if you are feeling particularly energetic.
Backgammon is the only other major diversion — there are two boards cut into concrete tables on the beach and often several games are played in one sitting. Beware, though, that ordinary rules do not apply. If you play there, you play by ‘Dom’s rules’, a variation from the usual and, some say, better.
Banda should not be thought of as a Garden of Eden, however. Like all ointments, it has its flies. And this is an appropriate turn of phrase, as for me the main ‘fly’ in my ointment was the wildlife, which will be considered a minor irritation or a big problem with your stay, depending on how you deal with it.
Be prepared to either ignore or constantly flick off ants and other small miscellaneous insects; also the rather more interesting caterpillars. The latter you should be wary of, as they secrete a venom or poisonous liquid of some sort, which causes a severe and highly unpleasant reaction should you get it on you.
They can also be as long as your finger and about as wide, which might cause you a bit of a fright the first time you see one.
Especially if it is crawling up your thigh. Apart from that, though, Banda is basically a nice place. Putting aside the trip there and the incessant buzzing around your head, it is a lovely getaway for a couple of days.
The only thing I would say, however, is this: at press time, proprietor Dom was considering closing the place down due to the effects of the Sunday tempest. If you want to get there, get there quickly, as you may already be too late.
The writer spent sh60,000 on the trip
Accommodation is sh30,000 per nignt. This also includes meals. Beer and soda is an extra cost
From Kampala to Banda Island is about four hours
Contact +256 772 222 777 banda-island@yahoo.com
LAST Friday, 3 O’clock, found me aboard a small boat on Lake Victoria, heading for Banda Island. Apart from curiosity, I had set out on this adventure because it sounded like a good escape from the hectic hustle and bustle of Kampala.
My jolly jaunt did not start out well, however, as I refused the porter offering to take me from the shore to the boat, and consequently clambered aboard with the bottoms of my shorts utterly soaked.
I also ralised I had forgotten sun cream, and suffered from the fairly common Muzungu problem of sun burn – finally arriving on Banda with damp shorts and a red face.
Getting to Banda, though, at about 8 O’clock, I thought it was worth the three-hour trip (though perhaps not the burn).
Gathered on the beach in the twilight were some roughly-hewn chairs and sofas, liberally strewn with cushions and softly illuminated by a couple of lanterns.
As I later discovered, this was the main eating and relaxing area for the ‘camp’. Though it was fairly dark by now, I could see some figures seated on the chairs and was welcomed heartily by one of them, who I later discovered was Dominic, the owner.
I was offered a beer and later on a delicious dinner of pumpkin soup and croutons (small pieces of fried or toasted bread), followed by a main course consisting of some fantastic fish.
The atmosphere was great. I had the impression of a relaxed, disorganised, exceedingly mellow place, where nothing much happened apart from the occasional play fight between the dogs – which besides the chicken, roamed around the camp as happy as larry.
The three days I spent at the island were spent in glorious indolence.
Without mincing words, there is nothing whatsoever to do on Banda, besides reading from the moulding library in the bar. Indeed, reading, drinking beer, sleeping and eating, form the basis of Banda life, with the occasional short stroll if you are feeling particularly energetic.
Backgammon is the only other major diversion — there are two boards cut into concrete tables on the beach and often several games are played in one sitting. Beware, though, that ordinary rules do not apply. If you play there, you play by ‘Dom’s rules’, a variation from the usual and, some say, better.
Banda should not be thought of as a Garden of Eden, however. Like all ointments, it has its flies. And this is an appropriate turn of phrase, as for me the main ‘fly’ in my ointment was the wildlife, which will be considered a minor irritation or a big problem with your stay, depending on how you deal with it.
Be prepared to either ignore or constantly flick off ants and other small miscellaneous insects; also the rather more interesting caterpillars. The latter you should be wary of, as they secrete a venom or poisonous liquid of some sort, which causes a severe and highly unpleasant reaction should you get it on you.
They can also be as long as your finger and about as wide, which might cause you a bit of a fright the first time you see one.
Especially if it is crawling up your thigh. Apart from that, though, Banda is basically a nice place. Putting aside the trip there and the incessant buzzing around your head, it is a lovely getaway for a couple of days.
The only thing I would say, however, is this: at press time, proprietor Dom was considering closing the place down due to the effects of the Sunday tempest. If you want to get there, get there quickly, as you may already be too late.
The writer spent sh60,000 on the trip
Accommodation is sh30,000 per nignt. This also includes meals. Beer and soda is an extra cost
From Kampala to Banda Island is about four hours
Contact +256 772 222 777 banda-island@yahoo.com